All 11 in-depth pieces we’ve published on Izmir — newest first.

Tours & tickets
How to walk Ephesus the easy way, downhill from the Upper Gate, plus which add-on tickets earn their money and which ten minutes you can skip.

A week of İzmir organised by what the city already runs on: market days, ferry crossings, match nights and the villages behind Urla.

A two-week window when the Aegean is still warm enough to swim, Ephesus can be walked after dark, and Izmir's evenings are comfortable again.

An hour's drive west of Izmir buys flat-water wind, two Michelin-listed kitchens, free coves and a 25-minute crossing to Greece. Here is how to order the days.

A tested three-day route through Izmir on foot, by public ferry and on the tram, with opening hours, real prices and the bookings you have to make before you fly.

An unhurried, hour-by-hour walk along Izmir's seafront: the wood-fired ovens at 06:30, the 07:00 ferry, and the fish auction working across the bay.

Eleven bakeries, one Sephardic pastry, and the honest door-by-door guide to eating boyoz the way Izmir actually eats it.

From a tree-shaded garden in Urla to a converted gasworks and a beach club in Alaçatı, İzmir's 11–16 August run is the region's densest concert stretch of the summer — here's how to plan around it.

A working guide to Izmir's serpme kahvaltı tables in Alsancak, Bostanlı and Karşıyaka — who they suit, what to book, and what to skip.

In Izmir's Namazgah district, a 2nd-century Roman marketplace still shares its ground with the neighbourhood that grew up around it — here's how to walk it, and what else nearby earns a place on the itinerary.

From sweating rakı glasses on the Kordon to a Michelin open-fire above Urla, the honest 2026 guide to eating the Aegean in İzmir — who each table is really for, and what it costs.