All 28 in-depth pieces we’ve published on Izmir — newest first.

Tours & tickets
How to walk Ephesus the easy way, downhill from the Upper Gate, plus which add-on tickets earn their money and which ten minutes you can skip.

Tours & tickets
The Lydian capital 92 km east of Izmir has two gates, one shared €3 ticket and a stream that paid for the world's first coinage. Here is how to do it properly, on a coach or on your own.

Tours & tickets
What is still standing on the hilltop terraces above Bergama, what the cable car costs, and how to build the rest of the day around them.

Tours & tickets
The shrine on Bülbül Dağı opens at 08:00 and sits five minutes above the Upper Gate at Ephesus. Bring a card, because the turnstile takes nothing else.

Tours & tickets
Most people walk past the Terrace Houses at Ephesus, the only place on the site where you can look into rooms people lived in. They cost an extra ticket at their own gate, and the time of day you go changes what you get for it.

A tested three-day route through Izmir on foot, by public ferry and on the tram, with opening hours, real prices and the bookings you have to make before you fly.

A week of İzmir organised by what the city already runs on: market days, ferry crossings, match nights and the villages behind Urla.

From a tree-shaded garden in Urla to a converted gasworks and a beach club in Alaçatı, İzmir's 11–16 August run is the region's densest concert stretch of the summer — here's how to plan around it.

From sweating rakı glasses on the Kordon to a Michelin open-fire above Urla, the honest 2026 guide to eating the Aegean in İzmir — who each table is really for, and what it costs.

A two-week window when the Aegean is still warm enough to swim, Ephesus can be walked after dark, and Izmir's evenings are comfortable again.

Walk the sloping bazaar lane, the two free Greek Orthodox churches and the hillside campus where strangers teach mathematics for nothing, and you can be done before the coaches land at 10:00.

A working guide to Izmir's serpme kahvaltı tables in Alsancak, Bostanlı and Karşıyaka — who they suit, what to book, and what to skip.

A free hilltop fortress, a rock-cut Byzantine cistern, a Roman theatre coming out of the slope, and the walk down into Kemeraltı for köfte, söğüş and şambali.

Eleven bakeries, one Sephardic pastry, and the honest door-by-door guide to eating boyoz the way Izmir actually eats it.

An ordered walk through Izmir's station quarter: the 1866 train shed, the marble columns of Smyrna, a 24-hour bakery and a meyhane from the 1950s.

A caravanserai of 1744, nine synagogues behind the fishmongers and a Roman agora, walked in the order they open.

An hour's drive west of Izmir buys flat-water wind, two Michelin-listed kitchens, free coves and a 25-minute crossing to Greece. Here is how to order the days.

A fortress from 1508, a bazaar selling mastic, the thermal shallows at Ilıca and two Michelin-listed kitchens, all within walking distance in one Aegean town.

The cable car is 200 ₺, the thermal pools run at 34 to 41°C, two forests sit on the water, and the fish houses are on İnciraltı Cad. Hours and closed days are for 2026.

Tours & tickets
One re-stacked column in a wet field is all that is left of a Wonder of the Ancient World. The site takes about fifteen minutes, and the three stops around it are what make the trip worth doing.

Eski Foça has castle walls, the Değirmentepe windmills, a 580 BC rock shrine and the fish quay at Küçükdeniz, and this guide gives the hours, prices and phone numbers for each.

A calm walk down İzmir's south shore, from the Göztepe ferry pier to the İnciraltı submarine. The hours, the fares and the fish-house bookings decide what order you do it in.

Windmills, Thursday artichokes, a knee-deep lagoon and the Hacımemiş bars, plus the bookings and prayer times that set the order of the trip.

People still live inside the walled Ottoman sea-fort, the fishing quay still works, the Sunday market admits only Seferihisar producers, and ancient Teos is five kilometres down the lane.

One Izmir district holds four Michelin-starred kitchens and the reconstructed ancient press at Klazomenai. It also has a quarantine island you can enter only by appointment.

Two working cable cars, one well-known elevator and a free fortress at the top. Then there is the hill nobody ever mechanised, which explains the rest.

An unhurried, hour-by-hour walk along Izmir's seafront: the wood-fired ovens at 06:30, the 07:00 ferry, and the fish auction working across the bay.

In Izmir's Namazgah district, a 2nd-century Roman marketplace still shares its ground with the neighbourhood that grew up around it — here's how to walk it, and what else nearby earns a place on the itinerary.